Dreaming Of France: Ardèche
A sparsely populated region with spectacular scenery, alluring villages, and a famed goat cheese.
It might be tempting to describe the Ardèche department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region by its proximity to other more famous places in France.
Just south of Lyon. Just northeast of the Cévennes. West of Grenoble. Hugging the Rhône River that flows along its eastern border. Ardèche isn’t home to any great cities. But what this sparsely populated territory does have is some of the nation’s most spectacular scenery.
That starts with Les Gorges de l’Ardèche, a 30 km canyon in a natural reserve that runs along the Ardèche River that has carved deeply into the region’s limestone. You’ll find here the Pont d’Arc, a natural stone bridge over the river that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a region rich in natural wonders that provides a great spot for biking, hiking, and camping.
Pont d’Arc is a gateway into a National Nature Reserve where you can find the Chauvet Cave which was discovered on December 18, 1994, in Vallon Pont d'Arc. Its paintings date from 36,000 years ago and are among the oldest such examples of primitive art in the world.
Also not far from the Pont is the village of Vogüé, officially labeled one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France.” Vogüé leans against the cliffs and the old town forms an amphitheater along the edge of the Ardèche River. It’s a great starting point for descending into the river for a canoe trip.
Before dipping into the river, however, stroll around the Medieval streets of Vogüé to see a small chapel called La Gleyzette which overlooks Le Château de Vogüé and its suspended garden.
Another destination worth a visit is the village of Labeaume, which also forms a kind of natural theater. The town is host to a popular music festival each year.
And of course, the region has its distinct culinary calling cards. Most notably, Ardèche is known for its chestnuts. Also, for the local goat cheese called Picodon and the local beef, le Fin Gras du Mézenc, a marbled cut of steak sprinkled with tiny hints of fat that melt during cooking to give it a rich flavor.
Chris O’Brien
Le Pecq